Bordeaux

RobertKoopman Schreef:
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> Mooi verslag Sjaak


Helemaal eens Robert, en over een wijn zijn Sjaak en ik het ook eens: Ch. Clinet
Waar Sjaak de rest van het plezier vandaan haalt..
Maar wie ben ik ?
Een sukkelaar natuurlijk vergeleken met de oude meester.

Hendrik

Gelukkig zijn we niet allen gelijk Hendrik!

Voor de liefhebbers van oogstjaar rapporten hierbij de visie van Bill Blatch op 2014 die ik afgelopen week van de UGCB ontving.

Veel leesplezier.





2014 Bordeaux Vintage Report : l’Union des Grands Crus
by Bill Blatch




Back in July, Olivier Bernard asked me if I would like to draw up a vintage report on behalf of the Union des Grands Crus, I have been producing my own little report on the harvest for many years now, but this would be different: much earlier and also from the point of view of the Grands Crus, using the members’ own impressions. I immediately accepted such an authentic approach with pleasure. The following is therefore the story of the vintage as I witnessed it through many conversations and visits as the vintage unfolded. It is an extraordinary story, beginning extremely auspiciously, then creating serious concerns during the summer, before concluding with a glorious end of season and some well-earned very good wines.
​​Bill Blatch, 11th November 2014

A beneficial winter


It all started with the second wettest winter in 50 years and the warmest in 24 years.
Such high winter rainfall and temperatures were extremely welcome, setting up the year ahead for a well-nourished and early cycle.
The precipitation was twice the norm for January and one-and-a-half times for February. After three very dry years which had accounted for some very small yields, it was ideal for replenishing water tables that would provide the vine with everything it needed for the dry spring ahead.
The warmth was to be of even greater importance than the rainfall, encouraging the vine to make a very early start. This would give it a comfortable advance, indispensable for the summer slow-down that was to come.
During the winter, it froze only 8 times rather than the usual 26, all in November and December and thereafter not at all, with temperatures 3°8 over the norm in January and 2°3 in February. The pruning programme was thus relatively unaffected by frost, so everyone could prune at will.

A very promising spring

Spring kicked off with a flourish when the daytime temperature shot up on 7th March to 20-21°, a full 6° above the norm. Such warmth after such a mild winter would have inevitably provoked an immediate budding right then if it hadn’t been for the cold night-time temperatures that followed. So it wasn’t until the end of this period mid-month that the budding really started, still a full two weeks ahead of the norm, and 2 days ahead of the exceptionally early 1990 and 2011.
Such an early start to the season was most welcome, increasing the chance of early ripening and early harvest, historically giving the best shot at top quality wines. It also made them nervous because of the increased frost risk, but in the end, apart from a few isolated bits of frost damage in some low-lying parts of the vineyards, primarily in Graves and Sauternes, the rest of March and the whole of April remained safely above 5°.
In fact April turned out not only very warm but also very dry, especially mid-month, and this temporarily slowed down the vine’s growth. It was however quickly restored during the subsequent showers and by the end of April, we had not lost any time and most of the vineyard managers were already laboriously cutting out the excess buds and “entrecoeurs”, in spite of the low yield that was expected at this time, surely a consequence of the bad weather in June 2013 for the “initiation florale”.
May became a cool damp month, with a strong spike of heat in the middle, just before the flowering was to start. Such variable conditions are never conducive to effective flowering and they accounted for some “coulure” and “millerandage” especially on the earliest Merlots and Sémillons. However, thereafter members reported that the main body of the crop flowered fast and efficiently during the very hot first half of June, with several days well over 30°, also with excellent air circulation. This was all very positive as the budding’s two-week advance had been maintained at completion of the flowering, confirming the prospect of an early harvest.
The only negative consequence of such a hot April and damp May was a very vigorous oidium and especially mildew pressure, which would stay with us right to the end. It required extreme vigilance, especially as many Grand Cru estates are now partially or totally organic or biodynamic and are required to economise on sprayings. Preventative rather than curative treatments did the job best but a fast reaction time and immediate availability of machinery and personnel were essential and needed to be programmed efficiently into the other laborious vineyard work of canopy topping and constant topsoil or grass control. There was much debate about the use of contact or systemic treatments, both very expensive. The mildew seemed only to attack the younger upper leaves and so could also be largely eliminated by canopy management. But it became a long and costly battle but successful in that no-one reported it getting directly to the bunches, so even in those patches of vineyard where it occurred, it only affected the top leaves, not the grapes. Overall, with constant effort, and very precise timing of treatments, members managed it well, as in 2000, enabling their vines’ foliage to perform perfectly right to the end.

Summer, the big disappointment

The reaction of many members during such dangerous conditions was to do the first de-leafing as soon as possible​ in order to provide better air circulation for the clusters, in spite of their great length this year. A sudden spike of 31°5 heat on 21st June that would be followed by a more severe spike of 35°3 on 17th July, (the hottest day of the year) caused occasional blistering of such exposed tender bunches, but members later said that this early de-leafing was clearly a totally correct decision, allowing the great majority of the bunches to take maximum advantage of such a fabulous June.
We were not to know that these final days of June were to be the last of the summer until September. July saw a meagre three days over 30° and August none at all, when normally we would have expected at least 13 over these two months. So July got itself a bad reputation with holiday-makers visiting us now.
Twice in June, we had watched the weather get violent, with terrible hail damage in the Northern Médoc on the night of 8th and very heavy rain further inland on 22nd-23rd June. July would witness two more extreme but very local events, on 19th and 25th, the first wrecking the Saint Emilion jazz festival and causing some hail damage on properties in the eastern part of the appellation, the second causing flooding and mud-slides at our three southern Graves properties. But, in spite of their newsworthiness, these were all isolated events and in the end it wasn’t the July temperature and rainfall figures that were at all excessive: they ended up just about on average. It was just a dull, damp month, with small showers, little and often, on 16 of the 31 days, and with a 12% deficiency of sun hours. Those of us who have lawns saw them remain green all summer long. We have had many July’s like this in the past: 1997, 1998 and 2004 sprung to members’ minds at this time. But in each case, August made up for it. As for each of these vintages, it was now that the vine started to give priority to its foliage rather than to its grape ripening function, and this just as the véraison was starting.

Consequently, the colour-change got spun out well into August. The very beginning of véraison on some isolated grapes was first noted by some Pessac-Léognan and Pomerol members in the middle of July, The heat of such a fine June had preserved the 2-week advance of the budding and flowering and by July’s final week, the véraison had begun everywhere. It seemed to go well at first, but then got delayed partly because there was still plenty of moisture in the soil at a time when hydric stress would have been more appropriate for effective ripening of the grapes, and partly because of the coolness of August. Some mentioned also that the warm nights and the cool days of July did not provide sufficient daily temperature shift. So there were fears at this time that the harvest would also become too spun out to ripen properly and to stay healthy if the weather were to remain cool or get wet in the autumn.
August turned into another grey month, reported at the time as a wet month but in fact it was cold rather than wet, a whole 2° below the average for the temperature and 85% of normal sun hours. It was only slightly wetter than usual but all the rainfall came from extremely localised storms and the Médoc remained almost totally dry. At this time members in most areas noticed that the grapes were swelling significantly, that the mildew and oidium pressure showed no signs of abating, and above all, that we had now lost the two-week advance we had enjoyed at the beginning, because the wet conditions had caused a potassium and magnesium deficiency in the soil. This could of course be corrected but they feared the worst if this weather were to continue. In addition, they started to realise that this would no longer be an early harvest; more importantly that there was now a great disparity of ripeness amongst the bunches. There followed an early and extremely painstaking second thinning-out of all laggard bunches, often accompanied simultaneously by a second de-leafing in order to further aerate the harvest. And, as if this was not enough, at the end of the month, in many parts of the Bordeaux vineyard, there was a widespread virulent attack of leafhoppers (“cicadelles”) that required immediate attention. All this summer work was very painstaking, on everyone’s high density vines but it was considered totally necessary and was performed without hesitation and at enormous expense. The fight would be long, but everyone knew that whatever they did, an exceptionally fine autumn would be needed for the harvest to come good.

An incredible, glorious autumn

How could we have possibly hoped for the turn-around that was to happen? Towards the end of August, the high pressure systems that had been so weak in July and August ballooned over Europe, chasing away the Atlantic – and our – depressions and enabling our weather to change at long last. The long-range forecasts became suddenly more confident as we cruised into the longest Indian summer of all time: from the end of August until the last day of October, the sun shone almost permanently, the endless succession of hot, dry days only alleviated by several isolated and very local but violent thundery days, especially on 5th, 17th-18th and 25th September and by some very light night-time showers during the period 4th-16th October only really noticeable on the morning of steady rain on 9th. This felt like high summer at last and the figures now confirm that feeling: at 26°8, September’s average maximum temperature was a whole 9% more than August’s and 3% more than July’s; and at 265 sun hours, September was 27% sunnier than August and 9% sunnier than July: and at 22 mm, September was 3.6 times drier than August and 2.3 times drier than July. It was also the third driest September of the last 100 years, after 1921 and 1985, and the third hottest after 1921 and 1961.
After a full week of this weather change, the dry white harvest could start. The earliest estates harvested 3rd-8th September, most just in the cool of the mornings, before the day’s heat (27-31°), and in totally dry conditions, the Sémillons, unusually early this year, right behind the Sauvignons. Most estates harvested 9th-16th September again under hot (26-30°) and totally dry ideal conditions. The heavy storms over the town of Bordeaux on 17th and 18th September were no more than light showers in members’ white wine producing areas, so the remainder could continue harvesting at their leisure right up to 25th-26th September also in totally dry but slightly cooler conditions (21-28°). Immediately, there was a general feeling that these dry whites had more than fulfilled their mandate. All talk was of the aromas, the freshness and also the power. These dry white members were the very first to smile after all that August doubting.

Meanwhile, the Merlots had been losing no time to catch up on ripening. The summer had perhaps been more detrimental to growers’ mood than to the vine’s own performance, which, provided it had received constant attention, had been less dormant than it had appeared during these two difficult months and it now seemed ready to accelerate, some going from 10° to 13°5 potential in just these first three weeks of September.

Apart from a few very early young-vine pickings, the Merlots could wait out the rain of 17th-18th and start on Monday 22nd September under radiant skies. For once, those who could afford to wait were not in too much of a hurry to pick their Merlots: there wasn’t an ounce of grey rot nor any danger of it under such dry conditions, especially in the by now arid Médoc (although Margaux and the southern Médoc were actually very happy to have their vineyard revived by the local 5th September rain, even at the expense of some hail). Consequently, harvesting could be put back again and again, and these extra days put the finishing touches to the ripening, allowing the tannins to fine down and soften. First off was Pomerol, quickly followed by Pessac-Léognan then, for once, the Médoc generally preceding Saint-Emilion where Merlot harvesting lasted for a record whole month, from 22nd September right up to 20th October. This lateness of the Saint-Emilion Merlots was apparently due to its particular soil structure, the cooler limestone soils pushing back ripening, and the heavier clays requiring more recovery time than elsewhere after the local mid-month showers and the isolated storm of 25th. Each member’s philosophy of total ripeness was also certainly a factor. It didn’t really matter as all options were possible under such fine conditions. On the other hand, with the Médoc’s continuing drought, the Left Bank Merlots were mostly finished by early October. Certainly the quite recent parcel mapping of each member’s vineyard played a major role in deciding the order of picking so that each was at maximum ripeness. The grapes of each parcel were tasted and analysed daily in order to assess the optimum picking moment. And even after all these attentions, the complex sorting tables, often two or even three, plus sometimes an optical one too, could put the finishing touches to the absolute regularity of the harvest. Everywhere there was satisfaction at the frank red-fruit aromas of these Merlots, some lighter (often from the heavier clay soils), some much more concentrated (often from the more filtering soils) but all of great purety.

Then there was a gap while we awaited the Cabernets. Many members reported that the Cabernet adores this kind of Indian summer harvest with its very long hang-time and slow ripening cycle. For we had gone from a two-week early budding to a one-week-late harvest, a full 3 week extra hang time. As for the Merlots, the Left Bank generally harvested first, most finishing by Friday 12th October, some pushing on into the following week, again in very leisurely fashion whereas the Right Bank Cabernet Francs were a week later, most finishing on 17th October, some continuing almost into November. Apart from the steady rain of the morning of 9th October, the occasional showers across the whole region from 4th to 16th October were very light and had no effect on the harvest. There was still no sign of deterioration of the grapes in the form of rot, only, as in 1986, of some wrinkled skins, so, as for the Merlots, they could be picked at will. The Cabernets, Franc as well as Sauvignon, appeared smaller, more concentrated and fleshier than the bigger Merlot grapes, again especially those from the more gravelly or more filtering soils.

Meanwhile, down in Sauternes, the relentlessly dry conditions of September prevented all but a few individual grapes from botrytising and necessitated a 1988-style series of tiny fastidious pickings until the showers of the week of 6th October provided hope for a more substantial onrush of botrytis. As in 1997, in September there had been a big attack of acid rot due in part to perforation by wine-flies (including the newcomer drosophila suzukii), necessitating a big “nettoyage” (negative harvest), but also allowing, as early as 10th September, a small harvest of individual botrytis grapes plus a few good “passerillé” (raisined) ones too. Simultaneously, a large crop of excellent ripe but unbotrytised grapes was picked for their dry white wines. None of the September showers fell on Sauternes: the Sauternais would have loved to have had that Pomerol storm of 17th-18th September or that Graves storm of 29th-30th. So the harvest continued in drought conditions, grape by grape, as each individually botrytised, a painstaking, laborious and costly exercise that accounted for no more than a few hectos per day and that lasted right up until at last it rained on 9th October
This rain unleashed a widespread botrytis boom and a much more serious wave of harvesting could start during the unusually hot 27° days that followed. The beautiful dry days of 20th-26th October, with their much colder nights, often down to 4 or 5°, saw the biggest part of the harvest, uniformly at 20-22° potential, and of total purety - providing utmost care was taken to eliminate acid rot, which had again taken hold and which was to account for much of the final diminished yield, generally 8-10 ho/ha. Most finished by 26th October, some in cooler areas such as Fargues, into the first days of November.

September ended with 265 sun hours – the norm is 182 - and with an absolute record of just 22 mm of rainfall; October at a whopping 194 sun hours and a mere 42 mm of rainfall. These figures are the met station in Mérignac. In the Médoc, it was even less, coming also after a much drier summer than elsewhere. It was totally exceptional and beats all the other driest autumns of this century:

2014​Sept-Oct 63 mm​Sept alone 22 mm
2009​ 83 mm​ 49 mm
2005​ 111 mm​ 56 mm
2010​ 117 mm​ 24 mm


The red wines

Since such a glorious autumn allowed for both maximum ripening and also maximum concentration, alcohol levels are naturally high, generally 13°5-14°5 for the Merlots, and 12°5-13°5, sometimes more, for the Cabernets. Yet the cool summer weather and the prolonged functioning of the vines’ foliage have determined the style of the wines with their low pHs and at first high acidities, coming from the low summer temperatures and from the prolonged functioning of the vines’ foliage. The wines will therefore give a sensation of power but also of great freshness. Much of the musts’ acidity was malic, so the wines lost total acidity during the malo-lactics, and anyway always have a tendency to lose tartaric. So the very interesting power and softer tones are now taking over, leaving only the low pH’s to account for the freshness of style. The tannin levels of certain Merlots are moderate on account of the difficult véraison, but are showing a soft velvety character and are of excellent quality on account of all the pushing-back of picking dates. This permitted more or less “saignées” (bleeding) without risking overstructuring, principally on those Merlots where compensation of grape-size was necessary. There is generally extreme satisfaction with the Cabernets, Francs as well as Sauvignons. They are less variable than the Merlots and often show great density and tannic structure together with profound aromas.Yields are generally satisfactory on the Left Bank, in the 40s ho/ha, slightly less satisfactory on the Right Bank.

It is well known that vintages can never be identical, but harvest-time inevitably brings back to us memories of previous experiences which quite naturally evoke comparisons to other recent vintages. Back in September, the 2014’s combination of power and freshness at first made members think of 2001, similarly the result of an indifferent summer and a magnificent, if cooler, autumn. But, as the harvest continued, and especially now that we can assess the superb Cabernets more clearly, these 2014s generally have considerably more power and riper tannins than that. Some, especially in the more dominant Cabernet-Sauvignon areas, and on certain later-harvested Right Bank Merlots, mention 1996, 2006, 2000, and in some cases even 2005, because of their more solidly integrated tannins. Occasionally, there is even just a little something of 2010 in this vintage when the depth of power combines with such freshness.


The dry white wines

The Pessac-Léognan members consider this to be a great dry white Bordeaux vintage. Such optimal harvesting conditions after such a cool summer were very beneficial to the Bordeaux style of dry white wines, which requires a certain florality and acid balance as well as power and fullness. These 2014s combine both perfectly. It is a vintage of finesse and sprightliness, but with considerable power, the Sauvignons regularly measuring 14° and more. Yields are generally low.
​
Sauternes
​
As for the dry whites and the reds, the combination of power and acidity is set to put 2014 Sauternes on a very high level. Both parts of the harvest have produced remarkably similar musts in terms of residual sugar, in spite of the great differences between the tiny pickings of September and the more massive ones of October. In the wines, the differences will be found in the acidities, very strong in the September picks, less in the October ones, and the assemblage of both will nevertheless make for very lively wines, almost to the level of the 2001s. There is also a big difference of style between the two, the first very fresh and fruit-driven, the second much more complex, and it is this complexity running through the purity which will certainly make this a great vintage.




-o0o-

6

Met culinaire groet,

TheChef

Chef, gaat u toevallig ook naar de 2012 presentatie van al die F$%&^&**(( meuk in het Kras?

Hendrik

Dat dan weer niet Harry

Met culinaire groet,

TheChef

Binnenkort doen we een tasting met 15 jaargangen Cheval Blanc vs 15 jaargangen Clos Rougeard.
Voor deze tasting zijn we nog op zoek naar oudere jaargangen Clos Rougeard. Vooral jaren 90. Iemand nog flessen liggen voor de verkoop of ruil?
Andere tips?

Hasta luego
John

iedere steak onder 500 gram is carpaccio
iedere kreeft onder 1000 gram is een rivierkreeftje

Cheval Blanc al wel compleet?

Hendrik

Jeetje, dat lijkt me gedurfd, maar kan me ook niet zo goed voorstellen dat Clos Rougeard 'wint'.
Al zal het vast van jaar tot jaar verschillen, ben reuze benieuwd.

Cheval blanc is compleet inderdaad.

Gedurfd....maar wel leuk!

Hasta luego
John

iedere steak onder 500 gram is carpaccio
iedere kreeft onder 1000 gram is een rivierkreeftje

Wow, wat een droom proeverij.

Heb uit jaren 90 behoorlijk veel Clos Rougeard gekocht en gedronken. Fenomenaal mooi spul.
Had ook een kist Le Bourg uit 1996.
Uiteindelijk 3/4 daarvan te jong gedronken. Volgens mij zijn ze op maar als ik er nog een tegenkom, meld ik me.

Ben gestopt met kopen omdat de prijzen geëxplodeerd zijn (maar vergeleken met Bdx valt het dan wel weer mee).

Potverdikkie, wat een gave proeverettes heb je toch!
Ik lees heel graag de verslagen.

Groeten,
Jan

Nou Jan,

Mocht je nog zo'n 1996er hebben....ik ruil hem graag voor een topBordoo of iets anders waar jouw hart sneller van gaat kloppen...

Het valt me erg tegen om gerijpte Clos Rougeards te vinden....

Hasta luego
John

iedere steak onder 500 gram is carpaccio
iedere kreeft onder 1000 gram is een rivierkreeftje

1994 en 1995 ook goed?

Hendrik

Welke Rougards zoek je nog?

Gr

W

Met culinaire groet,

TheChef

Ik ben benieuwd.

[palatepress.com]

John

Life is always better when I wine.

Koken is meer dan een recept.

Leuk. Dat gebeurde vroeger toch ook al, dat Bordeaux werd opge-pep-t.

De AOC zal het wel tegenhouden.

John

Life is always better when I wine.

Koken is meer dan een recept.

sas PALMER Vin de France verkoopt ook! Het zijn vaak interessante wijnen, die niet voldoen aan de AOC normen.

Ik viel vanmiddag met mijn neus in de boter. Ilja op de marketingtoer. Wat verkoopt beter een rode merlot met een poes op het etiket of een etiket met een schild van onbestemde snit? Volgens Ilja wordt 80% van de wijn door de vrouw gekocht en je raadt het al de vrouwen vielen als een blok voor het etiket met de poes. Mannen willen nog wel eens heel geleerd het etiket lezen maar haken af wanneer de vrouw de poes kiest. Nu zat er ook nog dezelfde wijn in de flessen. Het enige verschil is dus het etiket. Dus als je opzoek bent voor afzet van je wijn, ga voor een aaibaar dier. Dan de volgende proef.

Vier flessen van heel goedkoop plastic tot zeer zwaar. Opnieuw zat er een en dezelfde wijn in de flessen. Het zal u niet verbazen dat iedereen de zwaarste fles ook de beste wijn vond. Er was zelfs één Fransman die weigerde om wijn uit een plasticfles te drinken.

Opletten dus.

John

Life is always better when I wine.

Koken is meer dan een recept.



1 keer gewijzigd. Laatste wijziging: 19/12/2014 18:08 door JohnCopier.

De psychologie van het wijnproeven verdient meer aandacht.

Over dit onderwerp schrijf ik een reeks artikelen, Gekaapte Smaak. Deel 1 staat in Bouillon Magazine van afgelopen zomer (mmv Bob Cramwinckel en Dr. Paul Ketelaar.) Binnenkort verschijnt deel 2, mmv van Peter Klosse en deel 3 zal geheel over de psychologie van de wijn gaan. Een demasqué in van de wijn feite.

Nu ik toch bezig ben: aankomende maandag komt Proefschrift uit met daarin een lange verhandeling over port, van mijn hand, yes sir! Zelfs de grootste port/wijnkenners gaan daarvan leren. Sterker zelfs, de directeur van Verbunt belde me op om me te melden dat hij nog nooit van zijn leven zo'n mooi artikel over port had gelezen. Kijk, dat willen jullie niet missen denk ik zo.

Ook over port komt een deel twee. Ik zat 3 weken geleden tijdens een persreis in de Douro en wat ik daar uit verschillende monden kon optekenen, is ronduit schokkend. Dit artikel staat in het komende voorjaarsnummer van Bouillon.

Salut,

Eelco

Gisteravond hebben we met de Dordtse wijnclub weer een geslaagde proeverij gehad.
Het thema was deze keer "Bordeaux Linker- of Rechteroever". Er werd blind geproefd in flights met een linker- en rechteroever naast elkaar en aan de deelnemers de taak om aan te geven van welke oever iedere wijn afkomstig was.

Er kwam weer een interessante line-up voorbij met zeer uiteenlopende wijnen en een aantal verrassende piraten.

Hieronder de line-up met mijn scores, vraag maar als je meer over een wijn wilt weten.

1971 Chateau Latour Grand Vin, 88p

2009 Chateau Poujeaux, 88p
2008 Chateau Joanin Becot, 91p

2010 Chateau Marsau, 85p
2010 Chateau La Tour Carnet, kurk

2004 Chateau Batailley, 91p
2006 Clos de l'Oratoire, 93p

1999 Cos d'Estournel, 89p
1997 Spring Mountain "Miravalle-La Perla-Chevalier" (piraat, Napa), 93p

2009 Klein Constantia Marlbrook (piraat, Zuid-Afrika), 92p
2009 Kanonkop Paul Sauer (piraat, Zuid-Afrika), 90p

1998 Chateau Certan-Giraud, 90p
1998 Chateau Prieure-Lichine, 93p

1988 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron,95p
1988 Chateau Clinet, 96p

2004 Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière, 94p
2003 Chateau Pape Clement, 91p

1976 Chateau Coutet, 87p

Sander,

Ben zeer benieuwd naar proefnotitie van 1988 Chateau Clinet

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It's all in your head the thoughts you have that build your world illusion,
the faith you need so you can proceed and build a sane solution
is it the truth, is there any proof to back up the things you believe in,
or is it a dream to make it seem like a goal that you're achieving

**************************************************************************************



1 keer gewijzigd. Laatste wijziging: 20/12/2014 14:35 door A.C.H.terBaks.

Gaaf thema, Sander!

Over de 1988 Clinet noteerde ik:
Uitbundige neus met daarin zwoel rood fruit, bosgrond, krentjes. In de mond pruim, cassis, romig, zeer goed gebalanceerd. Volledig afgeronde tannines, zéér lang aanhoudende afdronk. Volledig a point, niet langer mee wachten. 96p

Net in het glas had ik een lichte voorkeur voor de wat strengere, klassiekere Pichon Baron, maar na een tijdje in het glas kwam de Clinet nog wat beter naar voren.

Heerlijke foto's Sander

Dank je Sander, ik heb hem voor kerstavond klaarliggen

**************************************************************************************

It's all in your head the thoughts you have that build your world illusion,
the faith you need so you can proceed and build a sane solution
is it the truth, is there any proof to back up the things you believe in,
or is it a dream to make it seem like a goal that you're achieving

**************************************************************************************

Bij de Brabantse Wijnsociëteit is de laatste van onze wekelijkse proeverijen een klassieker: Bordeauxwijnen linker en rechteroever. Met een al even klassieke indrinker: witte Bourgogne. We genieten van de proeverij van wijnvriend Henk. Het blijkt razend lastig om bij gerijpte wijnen de linker- en rechteroever te onderscheiden.

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroite 2011 Domaine Coffinet Duvernay
Elegant glas wijn met beschaafde vanille en citrustonen, fijne bitters en veel elegantie. Goed gedoseerd hout. 89/100

Château Yon Figeac 1999 Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé
80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc. Bruinrode kleur, complexe neus met herfstbos, cederhout, champignons, tabak, leer, wat cassistonen, laurier en zachte krentjes. Verfijnd! Veel kracht nog in deze elegante wijn en een mooie lange afdronk. 89/100

Château Pedesclaux 2000 5e Grand Cru Pauillac
65% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 8% cab franc en 2% petit verdot. Bruine rand, donkere kern, pioenroos en wat laurier en eucalyptus. Ook wat espresso. De geur is iets sterker dan de Saint Emilion, de smaak echter wat ontoegeeflijker. 87/100

Château LaCabanne 1982 Pomerol
70% merlot, 30% cabernet franc. Tweeëndertig jaar oud en niet om. Herfstbos in de geur, vanille en oud leer, boers, wat koffie en peper. De afdronk heeft nog wat rondeur, wel scherpe bitters op dit moment. 85/100

Château Marquis d’Alesme-Becker 1999 3e Grand Cru Classé Margaux
45% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, 10% petit verdot. Deze wijn drinkt nu érg fraai: een aardse geur met kreupelhout, rozengeur, honingdrop. In de smaak cacao, drop, heel goede balans en heel elegant. 90/100

Château Larmande 2003 Saint Emilion Grand Cru Clasé
65% merlot, 30% cabernet franc en 5% cabernet sauvignon. De wijn is nu à Point! Expresieve geur met rozen, kersen, pruimen, marsepeintonen, drop en nog wat fruit ook. Rubensiaanse rondingen in de smaak, heel veel rondeur. Erg fraai! 88/100

Château Lafon Rochet 2002 Saint Estephe 4e Grand Cru Classé
56% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot en 4% cabernet franc. Drop en laurier in de geur, oud hout, aardse smaak met wat mocca. De wijn heeft een lichte oxydatietoon. 80/100

Château L’Eglise-Clinet 2002, Pomerol
80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc. Deze wijn krijgt veel positief commentaar: pruim en munt in de geur, koffie, confiture van zwart fruit, mineralen en een stinkertje, amandels. Je proeft dat dit een Hoge wijn is, fantastisch om nu te drinken. Mijn aantekening zijn iets genunaceerd door de wat opdrogende tannines. 88/100

Château Rauzan Ségla 2006 Margaux 2e Grand Cru Classé
63% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 2% cabernet franc. De Margaux stelt de Pomerol duidelijk in de schaduw. Sommige proevers vinden dat de wijn pas net begint te komen. Ongelofelijk veel impressies in een even verfijnde als geparfumeerde geur: geparfumeerd, rozen, pruimen, cacao, mocca, leer, ceder, tabak en ook (positief) jodium en turf. Heel harmonieuze smaak met prachtige bitters, perfecte balans. Samen met Domaine de Chevalier dé wijn van de proeverij. Hartendief van Henk. 94/100

Château Canon la Gaffelière 2001 Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé
55% merlot, 40% cabernet franc en 5% cabernet sauvignon. Schitterend glas wijn, donkerrood, expressieve geur die véél te bieden heeft: pruimen, tabak, rozen, kersen, chocoladetonen (after eight), laurier en dennennaalden. Zachte aanzet, prachtige balans, smaak met fruit, de wijn heeft eigenlijk alles wat je wenst, inclusief een lange afdronk. Hartendief van Henk. 91/100

Domaine de Chevalier 2003 Pessac Léognan
65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot en 5% cabernet franc. De helft van de proevers waardeert de Saint Emilion het meest, de andere helft deze wijn uit het Graves gebied. Donkere kleur, een prachtig uitwaaierende geur met vuursteen, mineralen, leer, laurier, koffie, pure chocolade, mooie aanzet, een smaak met rondeur en elegantie. 96/100
We sluiten de proeverij af met een zestig jaar oude ‘Dulce’ uit Tarragona. Uit de documentatie begrijp ik dat deze wijnen een enorme prestige hebben verworven als miswijn. Niet zo gek bekeken van de Clerici, die hebben smaak!

Groet! Peter

Gaaf thema, Peter!

Bedankt voor de mooie notities.

Wat vroeger dan anders:

[www.chateau-mouton-rothschild.com]


Met Smakelijke Groet Dick

Mooi etiket. Gr. Peter